The Dogs of San Miguel

Dogs are a big part of life in San Miguel. Most families have a "roof dog" that lives, of course, on the roof and barks at passers by. The barks warn the house owners that someone is near the house but the barking is so common, I doubt anyone pays much attention. One Gringo told me he complained to a Mexican neighbor about the noise and was asked, "Why do you listen so hard?" Personally, I am amazed that my ears are growing used to the sounds again, and I seldom notice the barking except from Negra next door whose bark echoes around in Casa Amistad's stone construction. I am in negotiations with my neighbor about this but I don't hold out much hope, partially because Bilbo and I like Negra and often ask her to walk with us for a play.

Roof dogs are not just watch animals and are much admired by their owners in most cases. I asked Jorge, the corner blacksmith, why there are so many dogs in San Miguel and how people feel about them. He explained that San Miguelese just like dogs, especially poodles, which explains why there are hundreds around the city. Jorge also told me about the founding of San Miguel and the role dogs played in it, and in various battles that swept through the region over the years.

The story goes that San Miguel was founded by thirsty dogs. Friar Juan de San Miguel had founded a mission in the mid-1500s in a river bed that, like many in central Mexico, had water only occasionally. One hot day, his beloved dogs wandered off and the Friar found them relaxing on the edge of a spring of sweet water. The Friar was so taken with the site that he moved his mission. Regarding dogs involved in later battle that whirled through San Miguel, the dogs barked long before city residents heard on coming soldiers, thus providing advance warning. So, dogs have a positive image in the stories that are still told in San Miguel.

Most noticeable is the wide variety of dogs even in my neighborhood. Starting in the late 1940s, GIs used their GI Bill education subsidies to study Spanish at the Instituto Allende while enjoying the sun, lifestyle, and pleasures of San Miguel. More than a few stayed on, formed an expatriate community, and contributed to the arts community that is still strong today. And they brought their dogs with them. Interbreeding with the local street dogs has produced some interesting and sometimes wonderful results. I have included a few pictures so you can see the results.

The nice thing is that once Bilbo and I established our regular pattern of walking, the neighborhood canines began to recognize us, the sound of our steps, and our smell and now give us a few barks of greeting. In a way, we feel welcome. I will join as a volunteer with the Sociadad Protectura Animales (Animal Shelter) and will be doing basic social skills training with dogs to increase their chances of adoption. So far, that means me learning how to avoid being bitten. Bilbo is looking forward to when there is an opening in a local canine play group that meets at a ranch outside of town.